It's amazing how a simple action can change your life in so many ways, one morning in 2000 I was reading the newspaper, in the travel section there was a letter from a reader about a mountain bike ride he had done in Moab. I had just bought a Cannondale Mountain Bike but had never used it off road. I read the article and decided there and then that I wanted to do this ride. The USA is a long way from Australia but this sounded like the chance to do something really different. Our dollar was weak then, about .53 to the US$, I should do it again now that it has risen to 1.01.
He had mentioned the tour company that he used, it was called Western Spirit. I emailed them for information and within the day they had replied with details and photos. I was hooked. 125 miles cycling through semi desert at altitudes between 4000 to 6000 ft. Camping each night.
We arrived in Moab mid September 2002 from Australia, no mountain biking experience whatsoever. I prepared for the ride while Sue who would stay in Moab booked various adventure tours. Moab must be the adventure capital of the world. While I was riding in the desert she was white water rafting, doing 4WD tours and some bike riding close to town.
Flint Trail with Bagpipe Butte in the distance
Day 1 started at a ranger station, a few flat kilometres before we started to descend Flint Pass on our way to the first nights camp at Bagpipe Butte.
Flint Pass
I flunked my first test by walking the bike down Flint Pass, I was last in the group so only George who was one of the guides saw me, he just shook his head. The trail then flattened out into a jeep road which was suited to my level of ability at that time.
Bagpipe Butte in the distance, we would camp nearby on the first night.
Our first camp was on top of an exposed ridge, maybe not the best place in an area that is known for violent thunderstorms. As usual I got as far away from the other campers as possible. Experience has taught me that when people are in a tent they can make an assortment of sounds that is guaranteed to keep you awake. Now we had about 10,000 square kilometres of space in this desert but that didn't stop one of the other riders pitching his tent next to mine. For most of the night he coughed, snored, sniffed, farted, sighed and wrapped and unwrapped some mysterious package that was packed in brittle plastic. For the next four nights I was the last to pitch my tent.
Bagpipe Butte from Camp 1.
Day 2. we headed into Big Water Canyon heading for The Maze overlook which would be our camp for the night.
Big Water Canyon
Maze Overlook Camp 2.
The Maze is spectacular, looking down into it it was easy to understand why outlaws used it to hide in and why tourists often get lost in there. The plan on day 3 was that we would climb down into The Maze to see some old Anasazi dwellings and rock paintings. The weather prevented that with a number of violent thunderstorms which caused flash flooding in the valleys below our camp.
The Maze
The Maze and The Chocolate Drops.
Day 3. We left our camp and started riding back up and out of Big Water Canyon. The group consisted of 7 riders and 2 guides. One guide rode shotgun while the other drove the truck which carried our food, water and tent and amazingly, cold beer. The ice lasted for 5 days.
Climbing out of Big Water Canyon
Elaterite Butte
Day 4. We stayed two nights at Teapot Camp, this gave us enough time to do an unsupported one day ride to The Wall, The Standing Rocks and Chimney Rock where we had lunch. On the way to Teapot we had passed through Sunset Pass, a place where you expected to see John Wayne riding past.
With nine people in total it's just not possible to carry enough water for daily showers but on day four George rigged up a solar shower using a large black plastic bladder which was left on a rock in the sun all day. After our out and back ride to Chimney Rock we were able to have a quick hot shower. I'm not sure where that water came from but it was probably the melted ice that had been used to keep the food and drinks cool. Nothing is wasted out there, especially water.
With nine people in total it's just not possible to carry enough water for daily showers but on day four George rigged up a solar shower using a large black plastic bladder which was left on a rock in the sun all day. After our out and back ride to Chimney Rock we were able to have a quick hot shower. I'm not sure where that water came from but it was probably the melted ice that had been used to keep the food and drinks cool. Nothing is wasted out there, especially water.
Sunset Pass
Teapot Camp
The Wall and Standing Rocks
Chimney Rock lunch stop.
On our last night our two guides George and Buck cooked a fantastic meal, every meal was great, Western Spirit needs to be congratulated for the quality and variety of the food they provide. Every meal was delicious but on the last night they excelled. Hidden deep in the bowels of our truck was a petrol powered blender and a couple of bottles of Tequila. Margaritas in the desert, perfect.
Day 5. Our last day but what a trip. I would recommend this ride and Western Spirit to everyone who wants to experience a very different holiday. For me coming from Australia it was a great way to see another country and to meet some of its people. I made friends with one of the other riders who was from Texas. Since that trip we have visited his home, done numerous MTB rides in the US with him and his mates and he and his family have visited us in Australia twice. Like I said, this trip was a life changing moment.
I dont have any connection with Western Spirit but they deserve a plug, here is the address if you want a holiday with a difference. http://www.westernspirit.com/tripinfo.cfm?id=1198796482187
Teapot Canyon
Orange Cliffs
One of the guides suggested to me that if I wanted to get a feel for what this area was like before it was opened up to tourism I should read Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey. I bought a copy in the Moab Visitor Centre. It is the perfect lead in to doing a ride like the Maze, you can still feel some of the magic that existed when Edward virtually had Arches National Park to himself. As you sit outside your tent in the morning or evening it's easy to feel that same sense of solitude and awe that he describes so well in his book.
