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Monday, September 16, 2013

Rhine Bike Path.

Mainz to Cologne

If you are looking for an easy intro. into bike touring then this ride is perfect, the distances each day are short and it is completely flat. We booked through Rad Reisen and they sub contracted the tour to a German company, bikes were good and the luggage transfers worked well. Hotels were OK but the Grunen Kranz at Rudesheim should be avoided, tiny rooms and a reception clerk with a serious attitude problem. 

If you haven't done one of these European bike rides then using a tour company like Rad Reisen is a good first option but this ride could easily be done independently. With hindsight we could have skipped Mainz and Cologne and instead booked three nights in St Goar and three nights in Koblenz, rent bikes at both places and do out and back rides of 40 to 50 kms. each day. Lots of advantages in doing it this way, you can use the trains or ferries for the return or outward leg, choose an option that suits the weather. If there is a strong headwind on the way out take the train and come back with the tailwind. If the weather is bad you can stay in the town or city instead of riding in rain and fog. The trains and ferries are bike friendly.

Koblenz would make a great stopover point, you can ride north or south beside the Rhine or west along the Mosel. St Goar offers a similar situation, north or south or climb up to the Rheinsteig and do some hiking.

Mainz was a real disappointment, the city is dirty and looks uncared for, a huge contrast to Wiesbaden which is on the other side of the river. Cologne too didn't have much to recommend it, I am sure others would disagree but for us the small towns and villages along the river appeal much more.

Running parallel to the bike path but on the ridges above the river is the Rhine Hiking Path, the Rheinsteig. If you still have some energy after the days ride the trail is accessible [after hiking up to it], we did two sections which I will add as a separate post.

Almost all of this ride is on dedicated cycle paths, most of the route is just a few metres from the edge of the river. Signposting is good except coming into Cologne north of Wesseling. The condition of the cycle path is also good with only a few kilometres of root damaged pavement north of Bad Godesburg.

Mauseturm near Bingen
The cycle path is next to the river for almost the entire journey.
If you get tired of castles there are always plenty of churches.
Pfalzgrafstein toll station near St Goar
 
Restaurant food in Germany is quite cheap compared to Australia but some nights it's relaxing just to self cater, this meal including wine, beer and a piece of strudel cost €10 for two and we still had enough salami and cheese for the following days lunch.
Boppard
Markburg Castle near Braubach
Andernach
Wesseling coming into Cologne, the last 15kms. are mainly industrial.

There can't be too many original thinkers in Cologne, there must be one million padlocks on the ''sunny'' southern side of the Hohenzollern Bridge, if the relationship is not going so well I guess you settle for the cold northern side which only has a few thousand. Don't throw the second key in the river, then at least you can save money and re use the lock if a better option becomes available.


 

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